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Cycling: Beginner Maintenance Tips

Bike Maintenance 101

Wouldn't it be great if, after spending however long off the bike, you could spend a couple of hours tuning yourself up and then be ready to hit the road or trails in the same shape you were in after a season of riding or training? Yeah, it would be great, but it ain't gonna happen for you.

But it can happen for your bike. If your bike has sitting in the cold basement for months, covered in cobwebs and dust, it could probably use a little TLC before you get out this season.

It would take enough space to fill a book if we were going to detail all of the procedures involved in giving your bike a tune up. Instead, we're going to show you some basic things to do, and some warning signs to look for. If you want to really get your hands dirty, we suggest Lennard Zinn's, "Zinn and the Art of Bike Maintenance," which has a road bike version and a mountain bike version. The book is very comprehensive and very easy to understand.

On another page we reviewed some basic home workshop tools. You're going to need those, or at least some soft rags, some bike lube and degreaser, some grease and some basic bike tools (3,4,5,6,8mm allen wrenches, pliers, small screw drivers, tire levers, a pump, cable cutters and a spoke wrench).

If you've got a workstand, pop your bike up into that. If you don't, you can probably find another way to prop or hang your bike up.

The first step is to clean your bike with a soft cloth. Wipe the whole bike down. This does more than just make your bike look pretty. It gives you a chance to look closely at your bike.

What are you looking for? Anything that could cause a problem later on. Are any of your cables frayed? Are the tires in good condition? Are there any cracks on the frame, fork, stem, bars, etc? It is far better to take a few minutes to look for potential problems now, rather than find out instantly later on.

Check all of the areas of the bike that have bearings. All of the bearing assemblies have a few things in common. If they are too tight, too loose, or have dirt or grit in them (grinding noises), you could be causing damage. Bearings like hubs, cranks, headsets, even pedal spindles, need to be packed in grease and properly adjusted.

While you are checking your wheels, see if any of the spokes feel loose. You can use a spoke wrench to tighten any loose spokes without hurting the wheel, as long as you don't tighten them too much - go about a quarter of a turn at a time. If the wheels is warped, or rubbing the brakes when it spins, then you'll really need to true them ("truing" is using the spoke tension to make the wheel round and straight). Take a good look at the tires too. Replacing bald or worn-out tires will definitely breathe new life into a bike.

Since you were looking at your brakes when you were spinning your wheels, this is a good time to look further at the pads, cables, levers and the brake arms/calipers. Brake pads should be cleaned every once in a while, as embedded dirt and sand will wear rims down and degrade braking performance. Also check to make sure that the pads are aligned correctly, and aren't hitting the tire. If your cables are starting to fray, or even if they are just old, you should probably replace them.

Cables stretch over time and new cables will boost brake performance. You can also spray some lube onto the pivot area of the levers to improve the way your brakes feel. And finally, make sure that the brakes are aligned and are applying even pressure on the rim.

The drivetrain (the chain, cranks, pedals, shifters, gears and cogs) can seem complicated. But basically you'll want to keep your chain and gears lubed, but clean, since dirt and grit will wear chains and gears out (Pedros, makes excellent lubes and cleaners).

Chains also stretch over time, so there is another reason to replace your chain if it is old. You shifter cables, like brake cables and chains, also stretch and could also be up for replacement. Even small things, such as incorrect cable routing, can seriously affect shifting performance. If your bike is having trouble shifting, find an experienced mechanic to help you.

Now inspect the all of the allen bolts on your bike (stem, seat, etc). If they are loose or look rusted, chances are that there is no grease on the threads. This can lead to creaking parts and the bolts can eventually work themselves even looser.

Use the appropriate allen wrench and take each one out, one by one, and apply a thin coating of grease on the threads. When you are tightening the bolts back down, you have to find that fine line between too tight and too loose. This applies to ALL bolts on the bike. Torque charts can be found online, in maintenance books, even magazines. These charts are great, but if you don't have a torque wrench, they are useless. Generally you'll want to tighten everything down until it is snug, and then go just a little bit more. Although crank arm bolts do take significantly more torque than any other bolt on the bike.

And speaking of grease, your seatpost should have a thin coating of grease on it, to prevent it from getting stuck in the frame. Mark your seatpost with a piece of tape, right where the top of the seat tube ends, before you take it out. This way you'll be able to re-insert the post to the same height.

If you've got a suspension fork, check around the seals for excess oil. This could indicate a leak and bad seals. It would be impossible to list all of the different forks' maintenance procedures here, but chances are, if it has been a while since the fork has been serviced, now is the time. Check with your owner's manual if you want to do it yourself, or call you local shop to schedule a fork tune-up.

Lastly, take a look at the contact points. This is where you touch the bike, the grips or handlebar tape and the saddle. If you taken some spills, your seat could be ready for replacement. And like new tires and cables, new grips or tape can also make an old bike feel new.

If you discovered any other problems or ran into anything that you couldn't fix, head down to your local bike shop.

The sooner you get your bike running, the sooner that you can start working on YOUR tune-up.

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